he story of Seattle-based Ebbets Field Flannels. Told by owner Jerry Cohen.
Director / Producer : Andy Mininger
DP : Tadd Sackville-West
Edit : Tristan Seniuk
Composition : Ryan Rumery
Color : Joel Voelker
昔ながらの製法でスポーツウェアを作るブランドEBBETS FIELD FLANNELSのファクトリーの様子と、オーナーでデザイナーのジェリー・コーエンのインタビュー。
Fashion is, by necessity, an obsession for Fausto Puglisi, who designs his own label. Here he waxes lyrical about the wonder of Italian craftsmanship – something he sees as intrinsically connected to Italian society. But it is all underpinned by the opening statement: “To be proud to be Italian means to go out and discover new things”. An attitude that took Puglisi to Berlin’s S&M scene and then back to Tuscany’s leatherworkers.
Since they commenced their creative directorship of Valentino in 2008, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have made a point of opening the exclusive and enigmatic world of couture to a new audience. From conducting atelier visits to clarifying the importance of the relationship between an idea and its making, the duo explain how and why they are presenting a less well-known side to “Made in Italy”.
Shoe designer, Christian Louboutin, sketches another signature red-soled creation while discussing his early inspiration – the show girls of the Folies Bergères – and a love/hate relationship with his designs. www.vam.ac.uk/shoes
The kimono – they need several steps to dye once and again, again, again. Then go to the embroidery phase and maybe come back again to finish then send it back again. This is the kimono process for clothing. We had to reduce, to go a simple way. You put on the back side, only for the part he is working on now.
Q: What is the ink made from?
It’s not made from plants, but it’s a chemical product. And, of course, he mixes the colours to make the special colour for the kimono.
Q: How long has he been doing this for?
Q: So how old was he when he started doing this?
He was 18.
Q: OK. And why did he decide to do this?
It was natural because his father was doing also that.
Q: And his father, did he follow his grandfather?
No, his father started, so he’s second generation.
Q: Has it changed since his father was doing it?
No, they are keeping the same way, but of course it depends on era … periods, if changing a motif, they are changing, so he adapts …
Q: Does he worry that this something that is dying out or does he see it … does it have a future?
Nobody is taking his business after this moment – nobody. He works ten hours (a day) at least, sometimes more to finish the kimono, because it takes four days.
Q: Working ten hour days?
Yes. As we see, he starts with a red colour to complete the kimono. He finishes one motif to go to another motif. He tries to put the red colour on all parts of the kimono to not have a difference of colour for one kimono.
Q: So it’s all free hand?
Yes. Completely. That motif, the small parts, already he puts a glue … on the space to not have colour – he does not want to put colour on that part.
Q: You can’t correct a mistake …
He has to be quick to dry, to put another colour on. The company is very strict with the colour balance – so each time it’s done, he has to remake again. This is a very big piece for the women who will have … a very big ceremony – this is a kimono for that. It’s going to be very gorgeous and something very important for the life of women.
This part that you can see right now, this is the part that they are dyeing now. The part that they do not want to dye now they just put in the pot.
As we see, there are several colours already dyed inside the pot. It seems that at the beginning to make sure to change colours after to see exactly which parts he has to dye in blue and red and … We have also the seam that we can see in there. He has to remove a little bit at the end because of the form of the cloth.
Go behind the scenes as we prepare for the opening of the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition
Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty
In partnership with Swarovski
14 March – 2 August 2015
Alexander McQueen was one of the most innovative designers of his generation and celebrated for his extraordinary creative talent. This spectacular exhibition is the only major retrospective of McQueen’s work to be presented in Europe and showcases the best of his creative output of womenswear from his 1992 Central Saint Martin’s postgraduate collection to his A/W 2010 collection which was unfinished at the time of his death.
Supported by American Express
With thanks to M.A.C Cosmetics
Technology partner Samsung
Luxury womenswear label Peter Pilotto was the subject of the V&A’s Fashion in Motion which took place on Friday 20 November 2015. Initially founded by Austrian-Italian Peter Pilotto, Belgian-Peruvian Christopher De Vos joined the label in 2007. The duo met studying at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and now base their label in London. This video takes a look behind the scenes at the catwalk event.
ヴィクトリア&アルバート博物館のイベント「Fashion in Motion」に登場したピーター ピロットのインタビューとメイキング
Northamptonshire’s shoemaking legacy has stood strong for well over a century and De Fursac’s dapper Derbys and eye-catching Oxfords will keep you in step with the times. We meet the team behind De Fursac’s first footwear collection.